Camogli: The Italian Rivera

 Hidden Gem

Camogli

This absolutely charming fishing village has yet to be discovered, at least by US and many European tourists.  Italians know it's there! My wife and I have been here many times and it never gets old, certainly one of our favorite small towns anywhere. Late summer can get a little crowded but May and June are simply splendid. It's reachable by car or train and a 3-4 night stay is recommended. There always seems to be a light breeze and the weather is very cooperative. Camogli claims to be the birthplace of focaccia; given the number of small focaccia restaurants lining the wide boardwalk I believe them. Additionally, the boardwalk is lined with  a great variety of restaurants to include some of my favorites: La Camoglise - specializing in fish, it hangs over the sea in a wooden structure with lots of windows. Sigu - eclectic menu with pasta and fish served with a flare, Chinsea is special.  Bagni-Lido -our favorite pizza place!  It just doesn't get any better than sitting on the balcony, cool white wine from the local area overlooking the turquoise Mediterranean. We eat there at least twice on a 4 day trip. In town and away from the beach are also some fine dining establishments. Explore, you will find something you like, guaranteed. Often, there is an elderly man roaming the restaurants playing the accordion for tips. He's pretty good, always welcomed and makes some money. The four-star Cenobio Dei Dogi is the largest, nicest hotel in the city and has its own private beach, almost as big as the public beach. It's a little pricy but worth every Euro. Warning.....the beach is made of stones, of all sizes, not sand. Wear sandals if your feet are tender. The hotel offers a panoramic view of the sea, especially from its patio bar/restaurant, named after one of its longtime servers, Mario. Some Seaview rooms come with balconies and are highly sought after. 

Strolling is popular and gelatos are a must. The passeggiata is a time-honored tradition in which the whole town strolls at dusk. As the sun goes down, lights along the hillsides illuminate and the lights of Genoa can be seen in the distance, just magical. There is a scenic hiking trail that starts near the back of the De Dogi that winds along the hillside for a number of miles, it is a bit challenging but it has its rewards. Once you reach San Rocco, itself a quaint village with lots to see, it provides stunning views of Camogli. From above, you get a real perspective of how the fishing village and the commercial areas interact. After the long hike, a cold beer is in order and there is a simple Mom and Pop Bistro, Bar Pippi, that provides a pleasant break. Street-side tables allow for great people watching. For that matter, all of Camogli and its surrounds provide for fun people watching. Camogli is a photographers paradise. The village has a number of streets at different levels along the cliffs that seem to form their own little communities. So many beautiful places, so little time.