Loire Valley, France

 Land of Chateaus and Hunting Lodges

Chenonceau 

For most folks like me it's very hard to use Chateau and Hunting Lodge in the same sentence; but remarkably many are one and the same. Long ago, the grandest of Palaces sat vacant for much of the year while the wealthy played elsewhere when it wasn't hunting season. The Loire River Valley, a UNESCO World Heritage Site in Central France, has over 300 Chateaus that range from fortifications to lavish regal residences, many of which were built in 16th and 17th centuries. During that time in France it was "haves" and "have nots", the life of the Commoner was so different that that of the Lord. It certainty puts the French Revolution in perspective. Their extravagance is our good fortune! Everyone has their favorites depending on taste and time to visit. Sadly, I only saw four (one was our hotel). I would recommend staying at the Chateau De Chissay as it is centrally located to the most popular Chateaus. Try NOT see too many castles in one day, a common mistake made by many to include me. 

De Chissay

 Once a Royal Residence, De Chissay has been meticulously restored to its 16th century glory. You are greeted by Isabell and she is a delight. It is closed for winter and reopens in May. Spring and Fall are probably the best times to visit; summer is hot with plenty of overactive tourists. The Junior Suites over looking the palace grounds are a special treat. Dinner is at 7 PM and it is nothing short of spectacular.  Great service, great people and great food. For our dinner we had two servers, Kevin and Charles, both with charming personalities. The meal started with some treats from the Chef and just kept getting better, Ox Tail, Duck and Pork- all very delicious. 

Chenonceau

Outside of the Eiffel Tower, the Louvre, and Notre Dame, Chenonceau is probably the most photographed place in France. Stunning to say the least, I suggest going when it first opens at 9 AM in the morning - the river is still and the light perfect for reflections. Spanning the River Cher, it was first built in 1522 and has a long history of Royalty and mistresses. King Henry II gave the Chateau to his mistress, Diane de Poitiers and in 1555, she commissioned Philibert de L'Orme to build the arched bridge. Upon Henry's death, the Queen booted the mistress and took the Chateau for herself.  The Chateau has museum quality paintings and finely manicured gardens.  By far my favorite Chateau. 

Chambord

Chambord

The granddaddy of all hunting palaces is Chambord. The Chateau is one of the most recognizable chateaus in the world because of its very distinctive French Renaissance architecture. It features 440 rooms, 282 fireplaces, 84 staircases, a moat and 13,000 acre wooded park and game reserve complete with red tail deer. Probably the most impressive to me was the parallax (open double-spiral) staircase that is the centerpiece of the Chateau. The two spirals ascend the three floors without ever meeting. Very, very cool. Rumor has it that it was designed by Leonardo da Vinci but that was never confirmed.  

Cheverny

Probably best known for the "feeding of the hounds" at lunch time , Cheverny has so much more to offer.  The 70+ large dogs are a combination of English Fox Hound and French Poitou and are part of a controlled feeding frenzy.  The trainer hauls in large troughs of raw meat and feed and controls the dogs with a whip (never touches the dogs). I will never forget a man standing next to me and remarking "we paid money to watch dogs eat". Throughout history it has remained in the same family for more than six centuries! The castle has always been inhabited and the owners live in the right wing of the Chateau. In 1922, Philippe de Vibraye, the great-uncle of the current owners, decided to open the château to the public. This idea, innovative for the time, made Cheverny the very first private castle in France to be part of a new project: to share history and culture with as many people as possible. The tapestries, the gardens and the paintings make for a great adventure. If you have time, there is a great little pizza restaurant, Pinocchio, in the village outside the entrance to the Chateau.