Normandy and Brittany, France

 Discovered and delightful

Honfleur

One of France's most visited towns, Honfleur is home to an extraordinarily picturesque port and colorful 16th century half-timbered houses. It has been the subject of artists like Claude Monet and its on home-town son, Eugene Boudin. It sits on the estuary where the Seine River meets the English Channel in northern France's Normandy region. Any time of year is wonderful to visit this medieval city, but Autumn is my favorite, warm in the day, cool at night - great combination. Full of restaurants, museums and cobbled stone streets, it makes for a delightful day visit. My favorite restaurant, Au Bouillion Normand Honfleur, is a family run establishment where Mother, Father and Daughter work harmoniously to make everyone feel welcome. We opted for the lamb and potatoes with a special meat sauce instead of fish, good decision. A must see is the Saint Catherine's Church, it is the oldest and largest wooden church in France. 

It dates back to the 15th century when it was built by fishermen and shipbuilders - two of the most important businesses at the time. For that matter, the great openness of the main church makes it look like the inside of a giant ship. Numerous restaurants flank both sides of the harbor and, in good weather, offer outdoor seating. Great views from either side of the harbor and photo ops abound. The village is easily accessible by either rail or car. Normandy affords  numerous day trips and I would suggest staying at the centrally located Hotel & Restaurant de la Ranconniere. It is very hard to believe that this 18th century restored farmhouse is only rated 3 stars, it is simply wonderful. This property has been lovingly brought into the 21st century with all the rustic charms of the 1700's. The Boutique hotel has 36 rooms, very authentic farm house look, and very reasonably priced. The various buildings are nicely situated over several acres with lots of room for informal gatherings. The restaurant offers traditional dishes in an exceptional setting. I highly recommend the duck. 

Bayeux 

On the Aure River in northwest France 7 miles from the Channel coast, Bayeux's medieval center contains cobbled stone streets, half timbered houses and the towering, Norman Gothic Cathedral Notre-Dame. Additionally, the impressive 11th century, 32 foot Trapisserie de Bayeux, is on display in an 18th century seminary; it depicts the 1066 Norman invasion of England. Very special. The river affords many photo opportunities of rural French life on gently moving water with ancient buildings, water wheels and houses. Try buying a French Baguette, a stick of salami, a bottle of Rose' wine and picnic along the river. Very relaxing and just what the doctor ordered for a vacation. An extraordinary restaurant on the river is Le Moulin De La Galette. Known for its Galettes (Crepes of a sort), it has a marvelous Foie Gras. Come early as the outdoor seating over the river goes quickly. Reservations recommended. That said you are never pushed to finish your meal. Just enjoy. 

Market day is on Wednesdays where you will find a vast array of cheeses, meats, vegetables and local handicrafts, it makes for a memorable morning. Located in the town square, it draws locals and tourists alike. I have to give a shout-out for the  Confiserie Reine Mathilda. It's inviting from the outside but enchanting on the inside. A great selection of pastries, gourmet deserts and quiches make for a truly French experience. 

 Fougeres

Thank you Rick Steves!! Driving through France from Bayeux to the Loire Valley, a great friend in the back seat was reading aloud about Fourgeres right as we were approaching the exit. Pulled off to a storybook castle town. Absolutely too funny. Karma I guess. Located on the edge of Normandy and Brittany in northwest France, Fougeres' castle was founded in 1020, it is the largest fortress in Europe.  Its medieval old town with half-timbered houses sits at the foot of the castle walls. Imagine a French Rothenberg ob de Tauber without the tourists. In Autumn flowers are everywhere even climbing the castle walls. The grey slate roofs, yellow stone walls and cobbled stone streets make it oh so French. An easy climb to the upper old town has its rewards, a colorful panoramic view of the village, the fortress and the countryside. You will notice the lack of tourists; it's like going back in time. There are only a few restaurants in the old town and I would recommend L'Estaminettes.  A casual and friendly café, we ate outside and had the lunch special. The ham, tomato and egg tart, with fries and a salad really hit the spot. Those really, really good French Fries. I don't know if it was the warm day or the cold Leffe beer, but it was a great experience. Visit, you will be impressed.



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