Rattenberg and Kufstein

 Heart of Tyrol

There is something so very special about Christmas time in the Austrian Alps. I don't know if it is the snow, the adults and children laughing and shopping in the markets, the smells of Brats cooking on a grill, or some combination of all of those wonderful scenes.

Rattenburg

Tyrol is a historical region in the Alps of western Austria and northern Italy. Bordered by Bavaria, its citizens speak their own dialect of German. It's a region of castles, small villages with onion domed churches dotting the mountains, important rivers and numerous snow covered valleys in the winter. Tyrol has its own character and charm, populated with hard working folks that enjoy their special brand of good living and eating. Innsbruck is its largest and most well-known city. Christkindlmarts, a Christmas markets that is unique really to Europe and truly mastered in Austria and Germany, are fun for young and old. Practiced for many centuries, starting in the 1300's, the markets draw people from all over the region and include uniquely decorated wagons/stalls that offer traditional Austrian foods, cheeses, meats, Christmas decorations and ornaments, handicrafts and drinks. My favorite is Gluhwein, a hot mulled wine, with a toasted Bratwurst on a Brotchen with local mustard. Perfect for a cold evening.

Rattenberg, Austria's smallest city, sits on the bank of the Inn River, squeezed between it and the castle on the hill. Known for its cut glass, this 12th century medieval city is full of revitalized townhouses, restaurants and glass shops. My favorite is the Malerwinkel, a unique subterranean restaurant featuring regional specialties; try the Tiroler Cordon Bleu with a side of cheese spaetzle and roasted onions -Kasspatzln. I would also visit the Kisslinger House for glass blowing. The pedestrian high street is most delightful with colorful houses. Be sure to visit the Konditorei Hacker with its yummy pastries.  Rattenberg, 45 minutes from Innsbruck, is accessible by both train and auto; fortunately some years ago a roundabout sent traffic away from the city and created an attractive and safe pedestrian town center. 

Kufstein 

Kufstein

This striking village has a dominating fortress just above the town that is accessible by funicular or a steep path. I've only been to Kufstein in the winter and during December, particularly on the weekends, its is commonplace to see small groups of traditionally clad musicians playing local Christmas tunes. The town of around 18,000 flows down to the river with numerous cobble stone alleys for shopping and eating. There are a great variety of restaurants in and around the old town but I would recommend the Festungswirtschaft within the Fortress.  It offers home-style, traditional cuisine complete with historical ambiance and relaxed atmosphere with tasty comfort food. The Wiener Schnitzel is simply wonderful. 

Any visit to Kufstein would not be complete without climbing to the Fortress. It's expansive with a lot to see and do and affords views over the city, the Lower Inn Valley and the mountains.  During December, the Christkindlmart is held there. Although small, in addition to the normal food and beverage stalls in the courtyard, it has a large folk art and crafts gallery contained in one of the castle tunnels. It may have the very best beer in the world! See the museum full of medieval armor. The Riedel Glass factory is close by and has been family-run since 1756.         

I can highly recommend staying at nearby Hotel Schloss Matzen, it provides a great centralized jumping-off point for exploring Tyrol to include Innsbruck. This 1000 year old castle has been lovingly renovated and it reflects Medieval to the max! It literally is a step back in time. I've been fortunate to stay in a number of nice castle hotels and this is by far the very best. It is amazingly affordable given the spacious rooms decorated in medieval style trappings, the meticulously groomed grounds and the insanely large and diverse breakfast. I really can't say enough about how good the breakfasts are. Service is always immediate and ready to fix eggs any way you like. The variety of meats and cheeses is really something else. Try the champagne! It has areas for relaxing inside and out which include a music room and library.  Spent many nights enjoying Schloss Matzen. 

Schloss Matzen