Salzburg

 Land of the Krampus and much more

There is a reason Salzburg was established as a UNESCO 

World Heritage site, it is stunning in so many ways. The architecture, the views of the city from any angle, the mountains as backdrop, the festivals and of course the amazing food make it a must visit town. Home to Mozart and some of the most beautiful Baroque architecture anywhere, it has one of the best preserved city-centers around the Alps. The Hohensalzbug Fortress dominates the old town below; it dates from the 11th century and is one of the largest, fully preserved castles in Central Europe. Salzburg, sitting on the banks of the Salzack River, is made up of  the old town to the east and the new town to the west. It is also very much a university town with three to its credit, which makes for lots of students with a youthful vibe.  Anytime is a wonderful time to visit; but if you want to experience something quite special and out of the ordinary, visit in early December for the Krampus celebration. The Krampus is a horned, wooly creature from ancient Alpine folklore who, during the Christmas season, scares children who have misbehaved.

It is as much a part of Salzburg's Christmas season as is the famous Christkindlmart. In keeping with tradition, the Krampus can be seen visiting restaurants, running down  streets growling and dancing with the occasional switching. The later the evening it gets, the more rambunctious the creatures get. Don't stay out too late!! Salzburg's size is very manageable and easy to see by foot in two days. Please don't rush your time with this marvelous city, take in all it has to offer, which is plentiful. I would recommend staying in the new town at the thee star Imlauer & Brau Hotel or its four star cousin the Imaluer Hotel Pitter, both are an easy 5 minute walk to the old town across a safe and colorful pedestrian bridge. The walk and the bridge afford some great shots of the historic city. The Imlauer & Brau, close to the train station, has adequate rooms, good service from the front desk and an absolutely stellar breakfast. The restaurant is rustic Alpine and during summer has a beer garden. 

There are many great places to eat, but the very best to me is the Augustiner Braustubl. The subterranean brewery and expansive beer hall, over 400 years old, have kept locals and tourists happy for a LONG time. The beer is drawn from wooden barrels and served in stone steins, it hard to describe just how tasty the beer really is. The atmosphere feels like a castle and regional dishes are bought from various food stands in the Schmankergang (a delicatessen Arcade) which is set-up to resemble a traditional marketplace. It is another special experience unique to much of Europe that is worth trying more than once. Barenwirt is another great restaurant that has been in operation since 1663. It has a limited menu of local specialties, mostly fried, that are very reasonably priced. The Baren-Schnitzel is more like a Cordon Blue fried with ham, onions, cheese and dumplings. We learned of the Balkin-Grill from another Blog and very glad we did.  It is hidden in a very small space in one of the charming alleyways near Universitatspatz. The "Bosna" prepared there has enjoyed near cult status for years.  The Bosna, from Bulgaria, is grilled pork sausages nestled in a warm roll with onions, fresh parsley and a secret spice mixture. A shout out also to the Golden Kugel, it is a great place for local foods and Augustiner beer in a casual, relaxed atmosphere. There are a number of sites worth seeing to include the cemetery of St. Peter's Abby, the oldest in the city and the Mirabell Palace and Gardens where the ending of the Sound of Music was filmed. 

The Hohensalzbug Fortress, complete with a medieval museum and shopping area, provides panoramic views across the Alps and country-side. A true landmark of the iconic Salzburg skyline, the size and grandeur of this massive fortress was designed to deter invaders. It did just that for almost a thousand years. You can take a tram from the old town or there is a scenic trail that winds its way to the entrance to the fortress, affording many photo ops along the way. During December it has a Christmas Market on the weekends. Looking back, its one of our favorite places in Austria, from the Krampus March to the restaurants, it worth visiting again.