Lake Lugano and Stella d'Italia

A Relaxing Hideaway

Thank you George Clooney for making Lake Como so popular with international tourists; it makes Lake Lugano a peaceful, tranquil adventure with just as much of the natural beauty. One of the deepest lakes in Europe, I would recommend staying on the Italian side at Stella d'Italia. This delightful three star hotel has been in the Ortelli family since 1910 and offers stunning views of the lake and mountains. Most importantly, the family makes you feel special. Locals from all over northern Italy and Switzerland come to its now famous restaurant. During favorable weather, which most of the spring, summer and fall, you can eat in the Rose Garden Restaurant overlooking the Lake. Tables are reserved for Hotel guests for breakfast, lunch and dinner. I cannot say enough on how really good the food is, just remarkable. Franco, the owner, often seats guests and has a fun, but dry sense of humor. Massimo has been a server since we've been going from 2006 and has an infectious smile. Service is wonderfully patient and the view is amazing. We eat there at least once a day on a four day stay. 

Stella has a limited menu but all of it is thoughtfully created to include fish from the Lake.  My favorite is the Spaghetti alle Vongole, the  pasta is so light and the clams just perfect. I discovered it in Hotels and Country Inns of Character and Charm in Italy and so very glad I did, one of my very favorite places in Italy. Perched on the Lake on a very small two way, one lane street, it is directly across from San Mamete, a tiny, tiny village nestled on the Lake's northern shore. There are a couple of small cafes that I can recommend if you can pull yourself away from Stella: Little Italy - COLD beer and Café Del Viaggiatore : great local meats. It's just a few minutes from the Swiss border but I didn't find the town of Lugano as charming as the smaller Italian villages.  

An absolutely must see is the Costello at the top of the hill (mountain) above San Mamete. It is about an hour plus hike through scenic forests and another very small but equally charming village. The trail is well marked, steep in some locations but very manageable. You can drive it but if you can make the walk, do it. The completely walled, self-contained Costello itself takes you immediately to medieval times; you expect to see Robin Hood darting out at any moment. No cars are possible as the colorful, ancient buildings and residences are connected by pathways going up and down throughout this hamlet. It is still inhabited and has a wonderful church, Chiesa di San Martino, with a colorfully painted nave. Views of the Lake from the church are panoramic to say the least. Benches along the church afford a great place to relax and take it all in. Other views from the village of the countryside remind me a lot of the Andes of South America not the Alps of Italy. Stunning. There is a shorter path back to San Mamete, which I would recommend, but it is really steep. Good news is you get down faster. 

There is a vintage tour boat probably dating back to the 1930's that docks at Stella d'Italia during certain days of the week. The schedule changes from time to time but it is a great, convenient and inexpensive way to explore the towns on the Lake. It adds to the relaxing atmosphere of the Lake and its surrounds. A quaint and very, very colorful village is Porlezza. The boat comes every hour or so and probably two hours is the right amount time to spend exploring and shopping. I can never get past Gelatia Visconti at the entrance to the town from the boat dock. Just too yummy!! It seems like they have an endless variety of gelato, but they have cakes and other wonderful treats also. Every time I visit, which is often, it seems like they just painted the town with vibrant colors. Take a stroll on the promenade and you are likely to see a wind surfer on the Lake. 

Another charming small village within a 15 minute walk of  Stella d'Italia is Albogasio-oria. The town of about 400 people hugs the side of the Lake and climbs along the hillside. Give yourself plenty of time for the walk as there are a multitude of sites and places worthy of  visiting and photography. One such place is Villa Fogazzaro  Roi.  Antonio Fogazzaro was a famous local author and his home and gardens along the Lake are open to the public without charge. A great view of the village is from the short walk down from the Costello, right out of a post card.  Spring through fall are great times to visit but it will have to be by auto as there are no trains in the area. Go to Lake Lugano and experience a truly relaxing atmosphere and the nicest of people.