Venice, Itay

 Reflections

Venice is one of the most visited cities in the world and for good reason; it is simply like no other. Romantic, magical, and every other adjective has been used to describe it. Really none come close, it is something that you just have to see for yourself to believe. I strongly encourage you to see it in the early morning, the tourists are asleep and only the locals are moving about. The air is calm, the water still and a great time to take in the many reflections the city affords, both in the water and in your mind. Surprisingly, in the mornings and late evenings, the town is yours for the most part. The hordes of tourists in the Summer is almost unbearable and doesn't allow a true adventure of Venice - which everyone should have. Even in early Spring and Fall, the crowds can be intense. I really enjoyed Wintertime around Christmas. Tastefully decorated with white lights along the canal and streets, it is something to behold.

The vast network of Palazzo lined canals, bridges, ancient buildings, stunning squares and magnificent churches, has made Venice a playground for many for many centuries. There is something enchanting about San Marco Square in the late evening; competing orchestras playing classical music, the occasional moonlight and the festive mood of the people at tables. Very nice! Often tourists feel that a Gondola ride is a must for Venice; depends on age, significant other and what kind of memory you want to create. The first time I visited in the early 70's, I couldn't afford it, the next time with family and friends I could. I've been to Venice a lot after that and once was enough. There are literally hundreds of great hotels in Venice, particularly clustered around the main attractions of the Grand Canal, the Rialto Bridge and San Marco Square. We are definitely in love with the Venezia Grand Hotel Dei Dogi located in Cannaregio, a neighborhood in the extreme north of Venice. It is an easy walk to the City Center, San Marco and near the train station. Most importantly, it is a set in a quiet residential area with a personality all of its own. Delightful!! Although a five star hotel, given its remoteness, it is very affordable. It provides an authentic Venetian retreat in the17th century Rizzo-Patarol palace, an elegant location which in the past has been both a monastery and an an Embassy of France. Even in peak times it offers some flexibility on how you see Venice. It has its own vintage, classic teak motor boat that can take you (for free) to see neighboring islands, that really are a must and provide an escape during peak hours in Venice. Best of both worlds. 

Being in a residential neighborhood makes for some incredible dinning that mostly locals enjoy. Osteria Al Cantinon, a mother and son trattoria,  with only 8 tables inside, is just that place.  Creative antipasti, pasta and traditional Venetian mains, in a cozy setting with canal-side tables is exactly what everyone wants to enjoy when they think of Italian. The family service, the attentiveness of people who really care, make this place very special. The wine cellar  has a large variety of local wines that are a result of personal relationships and friendships with local producers. My favorite dish is Tortelli stuffed with pumpkin and porcini mushrooms with Parmesan cream and fried sage.  

Another great restaurant, although near the Rialto Bridge and certainty discovered, is Trattoria Alla Madonna. A renowned seafood eatery for over 50 years, it is decorated with local art and a menu of Venetian classics. The servers are famously friendly and very attentive. We have fond memories of this classic place going back decades to include our first venture into squid ink pasta. Doesn't look very appetizing, but it is amazing. Our good friend took the plunge and we've been enjoying it ever since. 

Noteworthy, is Hotel Dei Dogi's breakfast, a blend of Italian and US cuisine. It is served in a very relaxed and casual atmosphere, it has anything you could want to include Prosecco. A great afternoon diversion to avoid the crowds are the islands of Murano and Burano.  The Dei Dogi Hotel has a partnership with the New Murano Gallery just a short boat ride to the north.  Murano is renowned for its long tradition of glass-making and this gallery is as good as it gets in terms of expert craftsmanship an depth of merchandise. Yes it is expensive but offers one-of-a-kind items that will be cherished forever. Very much worth the time.

While in Murano be sure to visit the Museo del Vetro, which tells the story of glass making through the centuries and the Romanesque style Church of Santa Maria e San Donato for its colorful mosaic floors. Supposedly it houses the bones of a slain dragon. 

A little further boat ride away is Burano, known for its lace work and brightly colored homes. It's a small island with around 2000 people and its primary industry is tourism. It really adds another dimension to quaint. It has a number of small restaurants and my favorite is Trattoria Da Romano. Although it is recognized as one of the more prestigious art restaurants in the Venetian Lagoon, my favorite memory is of the hand painted wine carafes. Very homey indeed. It has been in the Barbaro 

family for 56 years and members of the family still operate it with a welcoming hospitality.  They have a number of specialties all from the lagoon: mixed grilled shrimp, sardines, brim and individually grilled sea bass and turbot, strictly using wood embers.  The Veneto area provides a great wealth of sights, food, drink and lovely people enjoying life.