Tuscan Hilltop Towns, Italy

Medieval Charmers

Sorano

There are many famous Tuscan hilltop towns which deserve attention and have gotten it, but there are just as many other quaint, medieval walled cities to explore. Tuscany has been a playground for tourists for several thousand years. Its agreeable climate, delicious food and friendly locals make for some pretty wonderful memories. I would recommend giving yourself at least a week to fully appreciate all the different treasures Tuscany has to offer. These walled villages are all together something very unique to Italy. They dot the landscape of Tuscany and all have a number of things in common: For as similar as they look to each other, they are all different in their own ways. The townspeople are all wonderfully pleasant and warmly invite people into their village life. Some of the best food in Italy can be found in local family restaurants. Always try the local/regional specialties, they will not disappoint. Many are completely encircled with massive walls or a series of buildings/houses that essentially form a wall. It truly is like stepping back into time. For me it is quite enchanting and if you love history, it should be for you too.  Here are some of my remote favorites:

Sorano

Deep in the south of Tuscany surrounded by rolling hills and painted meadows, Sorano is something all together special. An imposing walled medieval village that is straight out of a movie. This ancient city dates back before the Etruscans complete with cave dwellings carved into the surrounding hills. The hamlet is built upon Tuff, a type of rock made from volcanic ash, that has been compressed over thousands of years into solid rock. It's soft, easily used for construction and much, if not all of the buildings look like they cast in a mold of the same material. Masso Leopoldimo is a fortified, panoramic terrace ordered by the Gran Duke Leopold. It seems to rise out of the mountain -"carved from living rock that still remains connected to the earth". One of the most visually unique towns I've ever seen. Similarly constructed towns in area include Pitigliano and Orvieto.

As you approach the town from the main entry from the south, Strada Pantano, you drive-up to a stunning view of the city. The thing that impressed me most about this town was how the residents go about their business seemly oblivious to any tourists. Folks talking to folks, sometimes with great expression and always with passion. There a number of local eateries worth visiting but the best I have found is Restaurant Fildama. You are warmly greeted by Patricia in English and she will make you feel more than comfortable explaining everything with a big smile. The atmosphere is open and bright and completely inviting. We were there with a party of five and everyone got something different. The food was simply excellent. I had the Pici with meat sauce, try it. It is really, really good. The local white wine is from Orvieto, known for it wines across Italy. The Nona, Senoria Fildalma, still works in the kitchen but mostly works the tables. Even though she doesn't speak English, you could easily understand the warmth of her greetings. 

Another friendly place to visit for snacks or stay is Hotel Della Fortessa. It affords great views, great photo opportunities, of the city below.  Very cool place to explore. For such a small village it is replete with things to see or do. The Orsini Fortress, one of the most impressive fortified structures in the village, was constructed by the Aldobrandeshi family who ruled for 400 years during the Renaissance period. The fortress also hosts the Museum of the Middle Ages and the Renaissance which features numerous pottery pieces from the region to include the neighboring towns of Sovana and Castelli'Ottieri just 10 miles away. You can walk along the fortress walls or tour the piazza, great views are available everywhere. Sorano is only reachable by automobile but it is an amazing drive to get there. I would imagine that anytime of year offers some special memories and experiences but I've only visited in Spring and Fall. Both time of year are wonderful. Even if this is your first trip to Tuscany, I highly encourage you to put it on you itinerary. 

Pitigliano 

San Quirico d' Orcia

A small historical medieval village perched on top of a hill in Val d'Orcia, San Quirico d'Orcia has a charm all of its own. It is on the crossroads of numerous important, well known towns in wine country such as Montepulciano. A distinctive part of the village's history and its appearance is its position along Route 35 that arrives from Ponte d'Arbia and Route 36 to Radicofani. The Scala Hospital was constructed here to offer hospitality to traveling pilgrims. The village is surprisingly void of tourists. Quiet streets even during lunch. Possibly its size is the reason, but for whatever reason, I'm happy with just a few folks exploring the cobble stone streets. For a little town, there is plenty to do. Horti Leonini is a typical Italian Renaissance garden that occupies a large area of public space which comprises the ancient bastions of the town. Designed around 1540 by Diomede Leoni, the gardens contain a beautiful statute of Cosimo III de'Medici in the center. Probably the coolest part of the gardens is at the entrance facing was of the town's piazza is a very large ancient catapult. Never seen that before.  Just outside the city walls is the Collegiate Church of Saint Quirico .

It is a Romanesque building whose records date back as far as the 8th century. In my blogs I mentioned all of my favorite restaurants and all of them being very special. "Ancient Trattoria Toscana Al Vecchio Forno " is just one of those places. It is a rustic 1500s tavern with garden tables. It is known for it classic and modern Tuscan cooking as well as a great variety of Italian wines. I suggest eating in the garden if possible. It is a destination restaurant for me and my wife, our kids would agree too. We have had the great pleasure of Alberto serving us every time we've been there. Minimal English but he gets by just fine with a pleasing smile and gracious attitude. In season, the Porcini mushroom appetizer is to die for. Marinated in olive oil and spices, it is served in halves in its own special dish. The meat or the mushroom Pici are always our go-to. Tuscany is not known for its flavorful bread, a tradition of fresh, simple salt less bread that is served with every meal across the land. Al Vecchio Forno brings out toasted, seasoned squares of joy in a paper bag. Eat there just for those, yummy indeed. 

If you are looking for a a quiet relaxing retreat for a few hours getaway or a fabulously wonderful meal, this is the place. It can only be reached by car and I would recommend going in late Spring or early summer to enjoy the garden. I have been there in early Fall and the weather can be a little tricky....it never rains in May. 

Tequanda

This tiny village is the smallest I've visited that has a café or restaurant. Trequanda, as many Tuscan villages, rests on a hill surrounded by dense woods and tidy cultivations of olive trees and vineyards. Its walls are almost intact and two of the original, massive doors remain: Porta Al Sole and Porta AL Leccio. In front of Piazza Garibaldi stands the old Castle Garibaldi, with an imposing cylindrical tower and fronted by a charming Italian garden. The first settlers were the Etruscans and historical documents of Tequanda date back to 1198. 

We have only visited once and had a delightful, if not entertaining, meal at Ristorante Osteria Cirirea. The owner and chef is Giorgio who is supported by his wife, Julia, in the kitchen. As we were touring the town and stopped to read the menu at the outdoor seating, Georgi greeted us, was very animated and convinced us to dine. Glad we did. Although a vegan restaurant, it has plenty of other foods to offer for those that are not. We had cacio pepe and pici with boar sauce, very good. Sitting outdoors is always a great option particularly when you have historic scenery around. 

There is another more fine dinning restaurant down the street and around the corner called Il Conte Matto. Set in a historic building complete with arched ceilings if offers more upscale food and pricing to reflect it. It doesn't have a patio but does have a very inviting interior and from their website, the food looks amazing. That will be for our next visit.

These small towns brim with character and provide a real chance for visitors to see Italians in every day life. We prefer smaller, less visited towns to enjoy their unique quality of life from a time gone by for much of Italy and the world for that matter. Enjoy Dolce Vita.