Lake Como, Italy

 Lake Como

What Dreams are Made of

Postcard pretty doesn't really do Lake Como justice. The small road that encircles Como affords some of the most beautiful mountain and lake scenery imaginable. Anytime of year is a great time to visit as it has some activity for each season. George Clooney's lakeside villa has made it  even more of a tourist destination.  Early Spring or mid Autumn are probably my favorite times to visit. Given it's northern location, the weather is sometimes tricky, but hang loose for a while and as it will always get better. The Spring flowers dotted along the Lake and the village homes filled with flower boxes make it something very special. The summer months can be very crowded with everyone vying for photo opportunities and restaurants. Fortunately, there are a number of ferries (vintage and working transports) and private boats that afford access to all of the Lakes' favorite towns.  Mine include:

Varenna

This is my most favorite of the villages along Lake Como; it is small, manageable, visually stunning and full of great places to eat. We always go to  Ristorante Vecchia Varenna. They have both indoor and outdoor seating and the terrace affords excellent views of the Lake and the village. It specializes in creative  northern Italian antipasti, pasta, and freshwater fish. Please get out of your comfort zone and try the marinated and flamed lake sardine fillets with radishes and fresh raw zucchini. It is something to write home about.  Located on the eastern shore of Lake Como, Varrena is an essential stop for folks wanting to visit an unspoiled typical quite town on the Lake. It is just an hour train ride from Milan and a 15 minute boat trip from Bellagio by ferry. 

A walking tour of Varenna is delightful and offers many rewards. Piazza San Giorgi, in the town center, is home to the Church of San Giorgio. The church was built around the 14th century in a style somewhere between Romanesque and Gothic. The pavement around the church is made entirely of local marble. Varenna's lakefront, Riva Grande, is just wonderful and is full of cafes, restaurants, local artisan shops and ice-cream parlors. Walk along the colorful houses and take a romantic stroll on the Passeggiata degli innamorati (Walk of Lovers).  It is an inspiring promenade that connects the town center to the boats and ferries. A visit to Villa Monastero is definitely a must do. The villa was once an old monastery that later became a noble's residence. Today it is an international conference center that attracts tourists from all over because of its botanical gardens that exhibits numerous rare plant species. 

Bellagio

Nothing short of world famous, the darling of Lake Como is Bellagio. I've been coming here for well over 20 years and it's always has had its share of visitors. Beautiful and fun, but crowded, try early mornings or late afternoons. It is accessible (as are all of the Lake towns) by auto, train or ferry. The village sits on a promontory jutting out into Lake Como and is known for its cobbled stone lanes, elegant buildings and Villa Serbelloni Park. The Villa is a luxury hotel built in the 15th century and currently owned by the Rockefeller Foundation. If you are not a guest of the Villa you can't visit the interior. However, you can book a tour  of the 50 acres of terraced gardens around the Villa.  Take a short walk along Via Eugenio Vitali to get to Punta Spartivento. It is where locals moor their boats and affords great photo opportunities and a place to relax.  Amid the wine shops and local crafts, half-way up a steep lane, Via Salita Serrbelloni, is Ristorante Bilacus.  It is a family owned restaurant, managed by Aurelio Gandola, that is especially inviting in the Spring when the terrace is almost completely covered in Jasmine. Tucked away in a corner, it has amazing views of the Lake. Although I've only been there for appetizers, which were very tasty and Aurelio sources much of the food locally. Very nice experience. Also, the patio at Hotel Florence is great place to people watch. 

Menaggio

Menaggio is most popular for its elegant lake promenade and is an easy boat trip from either Bellagio or Varenna. Stroll along Via Calvi and take-in the small boutiques and craft shops selling local products such as food, clothing and home goods. Explore the Church of Santa Marta which is on the road and contains ancient paintings that date back to the 17th century. Menaggio has always been a jumping off point for us as it has so many boat connections to various villages along the Lake.  The boats are always on time (or very close to it) and tickets are easily purchased in convenient Tourist Info Stations (Villa Carlotta is the easiest). Take some time between catching boats to visit Piazza Garibaldi, a fantastic place to sit for a coffee or an ice cream and enjoy what is probably the best view of Lake Como. 

Lake Como certainly is a must see if you are in northern Italy but for me, it is a two day visit at most. You can always stay in any of the towns I have described as there is an abundance of hotels to meet anyone's expectations or budget. In an earlier Blog, I mentioned Hotel Stella D' Italia as a perfect jumping-off point for day trips. It is only 30 minutes by car from Menaggio and is worth the drive.