Assisi, Italy

 Religious Pilgrimage 

Assisi is best known as the birthplace of St. Francis, the patron saint of Italy. Located in the rolling hills of Umbria and perched on a high hillside, the city and its magnificent cathedral can be seen for miles, particularly from the east. Religious pilgrims have come here for centuries to visit the Basilica of San Francesco (where St. Francis is buried) and the Basilica of Santa Chiara (to see the tomb of St. Clare). You don't have to be religious to enjoy Assisi's stunning architecture and rich culture. This is one on the best preserved medieval cities in all of Europe. Most of the town's buildings are clad in a local soft pink and white limestone that at dawn and dusk drench the village in a almost magical soft glow. These materials are used throughout Umbria but best represented in Assisi. 

Walking through the many small cobblestone streets and alleyways provides breathtaking views of the city and the countryside from many different vantagepoints. Allow yourself at least a day to see Assisi to include lunch and dinner and take in the sunset. Anytime of year is a great time to visit, but I would recommend early Spring and Fall to avoid the crowds. The weather will be cooperating and the flowers and foliage should be remarkable. The best way to approach Assisi is by car; it is in central Umbria near the capitol of Perugia. A train and bus will get you there, but auto is more practical. My favorite place to stay in Umbria and Tuscany is Podere LaCasina detailed in an earlier blog. It is only 45 minutes away. Sadly, I've only been to Assisi twice and I ate at Ristorante Laconda del Podesta both times. The restaurant is known for its Cacapeppa; absolutely to die for! I have it every time. No meat, simply done and will make you come back again. 

An absolute must is to see the Basilica of San Francesco. As imposing and grand as the outside is, the inside is even more so. It is one of the largest and most important churches in all of Christendom. The church was begun with the canonization of St. Francis in 1228 and completed in 1253. The crypt was added 1818 when the tomb was opened to the public. The frescos on the two level church are nothing short of breathtaking. On the lower level the fresco theme is a deep blue by Guinta, Pisano and Giotto.  The upper church has frescos representing stories of the life of St. Francis and his followers by Cimabue, Pieto Cavallini and Jacopo Toriti. The narrow and winding streets of Assisi will take you from one historic landmark to another. The town is surrounded by medieval walls, with the ancient castle the Rocca Maggiore at the very top of the town. This grand castle is located on top of the hill overlooking the valley of Chiascio and Topino rivers. It dates back to the 12th century.  Take a walk from the lower village to Rocca Maggiore to see panoramic views of the surrounding countryside from the castle. If you are Umbria or Tuiscany, this UNESCO World Heritage city is certainly worth the visit.