Ghent, Belgium

 A Charmer

Ghent is a city of architecture, everywhere. Uniquely Flemish. One of the wealthiest and largest cities in the Middle Ages, its buildings certainly reflect its status to this day.  Ghent is a port city at the confluence of the Leie and Scheldt Rivers. It has a population of a quarter of a million but it looks and feels like a small town, particularly in the old town center. It has a unique vibe of both a cosmopolitan city and a quite provincial village. Most of it is pedestrian only and is very walkable. The very best way to see Ghent, which is a two night must, is to stroll its many interesting side streets and along the Graslei, a row of guildhalls beside the Leie River. Ghent is thriving as an increasing number of people choose to live there as opposed to the crowded centers of Brussels and Antwerp. Ghent is only a 30 minute train ride from Brussels and is on the line from Brussels to Bruges and the coast. It is also a college town of approximately 60,000 students which gives is a younger feel. 

That said, it is not filled with students. Any time of year is a good time to visit as there are a number of festivals and numerous museums and parks. The Gentse Feestn lasts for 10 days starting in early July and has developed into one of the largest cultural festivals in Europe (for almost 170 years). It includes six international festivals with cost free music on 10 squares. It is very rare that I recommend staying at an American chain hotel but the Ghent Marriott has an extraordinary river front, old city location in a renovated historic building. "The medieval building seamlessly blends 15th century features with sleek modern design elements. Its classic furnishings complement authentic beams and gothic exterior complete with a floor-to-ceiling atrium flooding the interior with light."  

There are plenty of eateries all over the city that highlight the towns Dutch heritage. Brasserie 't Vosken specializes in local cuisine such as "waterzooi" which is a local stew made with freshwater fish caught in the rivers and creeks of Ghent. It is very affordable and you can eat outdoors in good weather. If you like a quaint, small pub atmosphere, Brasserie Cafe des Arts is your place. A casual atmosphere where you are greeted with a warm welcome. Known for its appetizers and beer. T'Oud Klooster is a restaurant with real Belgian food.  The menu is small in choice but each dish is delicious and perfectly balanced. The current specialty is written on the blackboard. Bookshelves on the wall, dim lighting from the candles, old wooden interior and including a large table with benches for larger groups give this restaurant a unique rustic atmosphere. In the summer you can eat in the garden. Reservations are recommended as it's a relatively small place.

There are just so many places to see and visit and the  Gravensteen (Castle of the Counts), is one of them. Built by Count Philip of Alsace, soon after he returned from the Crusades in 1180 with images of similar crusader castles in the Holy Land. If its walls (six feet thick), battlements, and turrets failed to intimidate attackers, the count could always turn to a well-equipped torture chamber inside. You can view relics of the chamber in a small museum in the castle. Climb up to the ramparts of the high central building, the donjon, which has great views of Ghent's rooftops and towers.  The  Belfort en Lakenhalle (Belfry and Cloth Hall),  was a symbol of the city's autonomy, begun in 1313 and completed in 1380. This municipal tower holds the great bells that have rung out Ghent's civic pride through the centuries. Take the elevator to the Belfry's upper gallery, 190 ft. high, to see the bells and take in fantastic panoramic views of the city.  A must do in Ghent is to take one of the many boat tours of the city. It affords a great perspective of the buildings, their architecture and the impact of the rivers. Most importantly, it is a fantastic way to relax and take it all in. There are many beautiful large and small cities in Belgium, I would argue, as would many, many others, Ghent is  one of the most beautiful. As a side note, George Clooney's  movie 'The Monuments Men' premiered in Belgium in the St Bavo Cathedral in Ghent. The cathedral's masterpiece by the Van Eyck's, the Ghent Altarpiece, played an important role in the film.