Rothenburg ob der Tauber, Germany

 Lost in time

Rothenburg ob der Tauber is straight out of a fairy-tale, a medieval walled village with half-timbered houses and cobblestone lanes. A UNESCO World Heritage Site, the town seems more like a film set than a working village with a population of just over 10,000.  It is part of the popular Romantic Road through southern Germany. Today it is one of only three towns in Germany that still have completely intact city walls, the other two being Nördlingen and Dinkelsbühl. The town walls include many preserved gate houses and towers, plus a covered walkway on top. The name is German for "Red castle above the Tauber" because the town is located on a plateau overlooking the Tauber River. Great views of the rolling countryside!

This is an ancient city. In 1070, the counts of Comburg-Rothenburg  built Rothenburg castle on the mountain top high above the river. In 1170, the city of Rothenburg was founded at the time of the building of Staufer Castle. The center was the marketplace and St. James Church, where the oldest fortification can still be seen. The walls and towers were added in the 13th century. The main industry, of course, is tourism. Every part of the year sees its share of tourists but my favorite times of year are around Christmas and during the Imperial Festival in early September. This festival transforms Rothenburg into open air theater called  “Reichsstadt-Festtage”. Hundreds of people from the town and surrounding areas are members of historical groups who revive the old atmosphere and re-establish traditional professions. Everything from old equipment to original fashion, Imperial City Festival brings the 1500's to life.  

The entire town  really gets into being part of the festival. Although the festival is literally all over the city, the central point of much of the activity is the Market square in the middle of the city. Interesting to add, there are plenty of culinary treats to sample from the finest wines to traditional dishes for this region of Germany. Christmas time is also very special, especially if it snows (which it does this time of year). The Christkindlmart is located in two parts of the village and offers an amazing variety of foods, local crafts, ornaments and gifts. Although a little crowded in the middle of the day, the town is reasonably calm in the mornings and evenings. It is a truly festive atmosphere with both adults and children enjoying themselves, a lot. The aroma of grilled bratwursts fills the air and a hint of mulled wine, "Gluhwine" can also be enjoyed. 

This piping hot mixture of red or white wine with cinnamon spices does help keep you warm from the inside on winter days/nights. Music adds to the delightful ambiance with choral singing, brass ensembles and bands, performing classical and popular holiday works. These provide almost a magical backdrop for the festivities while colorful decorations adorn the ancient homes and shops. The lights at dusk give the marketplace almost a halo effect. There are a number of charming and quaint hotels to meet every budget and taste. I highly recommend staying in town at the Burg-Hotel; I've stayed there twice (and wouldn't stay anywhere else) and cannot say enough good things about it. Built into an ancient city wall, it provides breathtaking views from any of its spacious 15 rooms and suites. All of the rooms are meticulously decorated. It is a family run property with Gabrielle and her daughter making you feel right at at home. Otto, her Father and now retired, is around from time to time to welcome guests and is nothing short of the sweetest man you will ever meet. The hotel is located within a walking distance from the town center close to everything. I must also brag on the breakfast, very nice. This place is simply enchanting.  Although there are numerous wonderful restaurants in Rothenburg, I would suggest eating at the the hotel's restaurant in a separate building across the street, Burg Gardenpalais. The menu offers a mixture of regional Franconian and neighboring Swabian dishes, all with down-to-earth local  preparation. My family and I loved everything we had. I must also give a shout out for the desserts, large and yummy. In nice weather you can eat on the patio although the interior is really quite special. There is a unique little, very, very local restaurant about 10 miles outside the city in Schrozberg that was recommended to us by a couple we met. Goldochen Brauerei has an incredible take on Wiener Schnitzel and is worth the visit. Come hungry. If you have a bucket-list, Rothenburg ob der Tauber needs to be on it.