Garfagnana Italy and Villa Bertagni

 Path Less Traveled

Located in northwestern Tuscany, Garfagnana is a wonderful retreat for those that love the mountains and countryside. This undiscovered part of Italy is a forested region with fast flowing rivers and traditional villages. I must add, it contains some really tiny roads and some seriously large mountains! The little known region follows the valley of the river Serchio with the  Apuan Alps to the west and the Apennines to the north. Castelnuovo di Garfagnana is the largest village with numerous quaint restaurants, mountain style architecture and friendly towns people.  The colorful buildings range from orange to yellow and most colors in-between. It is a delightful place full of narrow streets and weekday markets. 

Tucked into the village wall, l'Aia di Piero doubles as a small delicatessen and café frequented almost exclusively by locals. It is one of those rare establishments where you find extraordinary food and unique  groceries to that area. Try the meat and cheese plate, plentiful and tasty. There are two other restaurants that are equally as good but just a little different. Osteria Vecchio Mulino has been putting smiles on faces for over 30 years with typical Tuscan fare. Characterized by a large dining table in the center of the restaurant and wines decorating the walls, it has one of the largest mortadella's on a carving station that I've ever seen. Combine this warm atmosphere with amazing food and you have a truly wonderful dining experience. 

On the other end of the spectrum is Al Treato. Partners Alessandro and Lucca, bring two generations of culinary expertise to fine dining in the area. They take great care in their choice of ingredients and source their food locally with a Garfagnana theme. It's All Good. For a completely unique eating experience in the region, please try Ristorante La Ceragetta. It is perched high in the mountains, nestled in the cliffs with a panoramic view of the Apuan Alps in front and Monatno Lake of Isla Santa below. It is most extraordinary. Although you can order A la carte, the knowledgeable locals order the very reasonably priced multi-course Sunday Brunch. Come seriously hungry. Some of the many different goodies include green macaroni with basil, homemade tordelli with ragu, lasagna artichokes with truffles, pork loin in orlof and fried lamb chops with vegetable flan. The food just keeps coming as does the wine. Service is as spectacular as the view and everyone one has a great time. We've eaten there three times and it is always a highlight of our trip in Tuscany. Parking however, is tricky and not for the faint of heart. If you are not paying close attention you could find yourself in a scary spot. If you are in this part of the world, they is a must place to go. You will not be disappointed. The very best way to get best seat in the house is to let 

Patricia with Villa BERTAGNI will make the reservations. If you are staying in northern Tuscany, there is no better place to stay than this Villa. The husband/wife team of Patricia and Moshik make you feel like you are the only guests they have. They are warm and inviting people that make this place very special. Located within a short drive of Castelnuovo di Garfagnana (or a walk if you are so inclined), it has a main house, a  recently renovated apartment building and numerous gardens, pools and a great view of the mountains. It feels like you are in the middle of your own piece of paradise far away from anything. Patricia has a gift of decorating rooms that is nothing short of fabulous. I've seen all of the rooms, each are a little different but all share a common theme of luxury and great taste. The only thing that out-does her decorating is her cooking. Patricia makes her own pastries, which are to die for, and you have a choice of homemade breads and local meats. If that is not enough, Moshik makes some mean scrambled eggs. Every time we visit, we are met in their parlor, which itself is stunning, with a welcoming adult beverage. My favorite is Aperol Spritz. Just doesn't get any better than this. Funny, neither are from Italy, but they understand the culture completely. Give them a try, you'll keep coming back as we do. 

While in the area and only a minutes from Lucca, a must see is the "Devils Bridge". Commissioned by the Countess Matilda of Tuscany in the 11th century, the Ponte della Maddalena or Devils Bridge, is a remarkable example of medieval engineering. It used to be on the Via Francigena, one of the most important pilgrimage routes in the Middle Ages. Straddling the Serchio river by the small town of Borgo a Mozzano, is shrouded in mystery and, for this reason, is a source of fascination for many visitors who travel to the area just to see it. "According to legend, the head construction worker supervising the building of the bridge was worried about not completing the work on time. Thus, he made a pact with the devil: in exchange for his help to finish the bridge in one night, the devil demanded the soul of the first passerby to cross the bridge. However, feeling remorseful about giving a person’s soul to the devil, the construction worked consulted with the local priest and they decided to have a dog cross the bridge first. Furious, the devil plunged into the river with the dog, never to be seen again. It is said that the dog, a white Maremma sheepdog, is sometimes seen walking on the bridge in the evenings at the end of October, and that he is the Devil still looking for the soul of the head construction worker. "  Garfagnana is a wonderful part of Tuscany that is still relatively unexplored and has a certain charm all of its own. It is certainly worth a couple of days enjoying all that it has to offer to include nearby Lucca which I will describe in another Blog.