Lucca, Italy

 Famous Walls

Lucca is a historical city on the Serchio River in Italy’s Tuscany region. It’s known for the well-preserved Renaissance walls encircling its historic city center and its cobblestone streets. Broad, tree-lined pathways along the tops of these massive 16th- and 17th-century ramparts are popular for strolling and cycling. Considered one of the most beautiful cities in Tuscany, it is one of the very few that is not a hillside town. Located in northwest Tuscany near Pisa, it is known as the city of a hundred churches due to its large amount of historical religious structures boasting such buildings as Lucca Cathedral and San Michele in Foro. Originally this city was founded by the Etruscans and was then a Roman colony around 180 BC. During the Roman era, Lucca served as an important meeting place for Julius Caesar and Crassus. In later years, the city was an independent republic for nearly 500 years as part of feudal Italy. During the 19th century, Lucca was conquered by Napoleon, and it finally became part of Unified Italy in 1860. Today, Lucca is a popular tourist destination and has close ties with Pisa. Located in the historic old town in the Piazza San Martino, the Duomo is a truly impressive structure and is renowned throughout Italy for its stunning façade and design. The front façade features a series of opulent archways and an ornate portico framing the front doors. Next to the church is the immense bell tower that is only half finished – the lower half remains exposed brick and creates a contrast to the white walls of the top two levels. 

Inside the cathedral, there is a plethora of beautiful artwork and one of the main features is the sublime shrine of the Sacred Face of Lucca. Piazza dell Anfiteatro is exactly as the name describes and was once a Roman Amphitheatre – the elliptical shape is still evident even if none of the original structure is. The buildings surrounding the square have been created in the same elliptical shape and are all different heights and colors – the effect is quite astounding and the shades of yellow, cream and white create an inviting open space. Furthermore, most of the houses have green shutters to create a sense of uniform. Within the piazza there is also a series of high quality restaurants and cafes all with outdoor seating – a meal within this beautiful square will prove to be a memorable one.  

A great place for  drinks, a meat tray and a front seat view of the Piazza is bar /restaurant Bollicina. Although we were there just after lunchtime, service was great, enjoyed the ambiance of the outdoor seating and our server, Marina, was delightful. She is from Lucca and very proud of it. She wants to go to the US one day. I recommended the small towns. A small, cozy restaurant highly recommended by our Hotel, Villa Bertagni, is In Pasta. Just blocks within the old city walls, this eatery specializes in  home-made pasta and is frequented mostly by locals. You place your order at the counter and your food is brought out to you, quickly. Hope for a pretty day were you can eat outside as the inside is very, very small. The food is amazing and we shared the bruschetta plate and spaghetti with mushrooms and cream sauce. Located on Corso Garibaldi, it offers a great people watching opportunity. 

Ranked number one by numerous websites, Osteria Da Pasquale restaurant in the center of Lucca is one of the most inviting places to visit. Located on the Via del Moro in the heart of the old town, this unassuming establishment benefits from fantastic hosts and high-quality dishes. The restaurant specializes in seafood but also offers some wonderful Italian dishes such as ravioli and other pastas. If you enjoy a glass of wine with your meal, the host will help you choose a suitable bouquet from their extensive selection. The quality of the food, the attentiveness of the staff and the atmosphere will create a magical evening. Lucca has several interesting historical towers, but none are as interesting as the strange Torre Guinigi – this is the most important and iconic tower in Lucca and is known for its rooftop garden. Created in the 14th century, this tower is a fantastic example of Romanesque/Gothic architecture and features an exposed brick design with a series of arched windows. Standing at about 135 feet high, this tower dominates the skyline and can be seen from many places within the city center. The most notable feature is not the height however, it is the garden that sits at the very top – this garden contains some beautiful Holm Oak trees that symbolize rebirth and have become an icon of Lucca.  

Located only a short distance from the Piazza dell Anfiteatro, the Square of Napoleon is another fantastic open space within the historic town center of Lucca and features some important buildings. To the left hand side of the square you can find the Ducale Palace with its impressive front façade. In front of the palace is an ornate white statue of Maria Luisa which is in turn framed on three sides by a series if luscious trees. Other notable structures surrounding the square include the Giglio Theatre, the Museo del Risorgimento and the Prefettura Di Lucca.  Cycling is hugely popular in Lucca, bikes of all sizes are everywhere. Probably most popular with tourists and locals alike, is riding atop the city walls. Surrounding the old center of Lucca is a virtually complete complex of city walls. It is one of the most complete and well preserved fortifications in Italy and you can walk/cycle around the whole city through a series of well-maintained promenades. At strategic intervals there are 11 bastions such as the bulwark of San Martino and the Porta San Pietro. A complete footpath / bikeway connects each bastion and is lined with trees and stretches for some 2 and half miles. A bike rental station is immediately inside the main entrance to the city and very reasonably priced. We did it and had a blast, very relaxing when you aren't dodging tourists. 

There are a number of great hotels in-and -around Lucca that fit any need and price range. Depending on your itinerary, and how long you are in this part of Tuscany, I would recommend Villa Bertagni, just 30 minutes to the north and highlighted in a previous post. It's in the mountains and completely wonderful. Its proprietors make it very special. Lucca is very accessible via the A-11, with Florence to the east and Pisa to the west. Approaching the south is via SR 439 and to the north, small roads. Lucca's quaint train station, with 5 platforms, accommodates regional  rail passengers and offers a variety of services. We've been to Lucca only twice, but it will be on on travel plans for the future with friends and family. Give yourself a couple of days to explore. You will love it!