Cinque Terre, Italy

 Coastal Splendor

The five villages called Cinque Terrealong the Ligurian coast have gainedinternational attention as a major tourist destination.  Monterosso al Mare, Vernazza, Corniglia, Manarola, and Riomaggiore are all special in their own way and all but one, Corniglia, are on the water. Located in the northwest of Italy, it lies west of La Spezia Province. These tiny towns and the surrounding hillsides are all part of the Cinque Terre National Park, a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Over the centuries, people have built terraces on the rugged, steep landscape right up to the cliffs that overlook the Ligurian Sea. Paths, trains, and boats connect the villages as cars can only reach them with great difficulty from the outside via narrow and precarious mountain roads. The only vehicles allowed inside of the towns are local citizens and delivery trucks. 

The train system is very good, and trains are in and out of the villages every few minutes, best way to travel. It really wasn't until the 1970's that Cinque Terre was discovered, and it was in part, due to the rail system uniting the five towns. We have never spent the night in Cinque Terre as we have a great little fishing village, Camogli, we love that is an hour and a half away by train. That said, I think the very best way to see Cinque Terre is spending a couple of nights in one of the many bed and breakfasts' located in the villages. Get immersed!  The villages are very busy with day trippers by train and boat from mid-morning until late afternoon. After that, it pretty-much empties out and you should have a very pleasant and relaxing experience. Our favorites are Vernazza, Manarola and Corniglia in that order. For a nominal fee, a hiking pass can be purchased from the park. Please check in advance as to what trails are open. Vernazza is known for their tomatoes; large, juicy and simply wonderful. Photography from the hillside above affords some absolutely astonishing shots. It has a well-protected small harbor that is surrounded by picture pretty painted buildings. For that matter all of the towns have the characteristic brightly painted/colorful houses. It remains today one of the truest fishing villages in the Cinque Terra. There are a number of good restaurants along the harbor including a nice pizza place called

Ristorante Pizzeria Vulnetia. Very typical, very good! Our favorite is just up the hill with a fantastic view, Bar Restaurant La Torre. Overlooking the village and with stunning views of the Mediterranean, it has the best Tomato Bruschetta we have ever had in all of our 20 + years in Italy. The owner is very proud of her tomatoes. A tribute to the townspeople of Vernazza; it was devastated by a raging flood in 2011 and they completely rebuilt it as good as ever within a couple of years. A scenic, yet somewhat challenging hike along a narrow up and down trail leads to Corniglia. If you are up to it, I highly recommend the trek as it provides some breathtaking views of the cliffs and sea. Corniglia is the only town not directly on the water and not nearly as crowded. It is, however, worth a visit. Charming, quaint and full of life. Just a little way out of town and perched on a cliff is La Posada. Mostly outdoor seating in good weather,

it has a great local house white wine that is best served with the freshly caught fried sardines. Absolutely to die for! Probably the most photographed of the villages is Manarola. The hike between Corniglia and Manarola is the longest but also the prettiest. Situated on a rock outcropping, its houses are probably more colorful than most and a must shoot for professional and amateur photographers alike. A great place to view the town, have a delicious meal in a relaxing atmosphere is Nessum Dorma. Again, cliff-side outdoor seating with amazing local breads, meats and cheeses and plenty of fresh fruit. The restaurant specializes in platters served with a smile. It is truly a delightful experience. 

Just a little background on Cinque Terra: It has an ancient history dating back to the 11th century and experienced an economic decline from the 17th to 19th centuries. As nearby La Spezia grew, it shared in its prosperity to some degree. When it gained a railway at the turn of the last century it led to some migration out of the area until the 1970's when tourism started in earnest. The predominant crops in the area have been grapes and olives. Some fishermen were based in the villages, but the area's brightly painted fisherman's cottages were conceived in the late 1970s as a tourist attraction.

It is a lovely place that you will thank yourself for visiting. See it if you are remotely close.