Hallstatt, Austria

 Alpine Getaway 

Nestled on a lake deep in the Austrian Alps is the storybook village of Hallstatt. A picture-postcard of a town, it has a history that dates back well over a thousand years. I've only visited at Christmas and it was simply magical. From what I've seen, heard and read, it is stunning year around with activities for all ages. It remained happily undiscovered for a very long time until 1997 when it became a UNESCO World Heritage site and Rick Steves did an episode on it. Then it exploded with tourism. Now the town just over 500 can swell to over 5000 from day trippers during peak tourist times of 10 to 4. The Chinese loved it so much they built an exact replica in their country. It is so remote there is really only one way in and out of Hallstatt, B166 and L457.  I strongly encourage anyone considering this wonderful place to stay at least 2-3 days. Although there are a few small hotels in the village, the most beautiful is the four star See Hotel Gruner Baum. 

This rustic hotel is nothing short of fabulous: large rooms, grand balconies and amazing views. You cannot ask for more, it will please even those with the most discerning tastes. Not only is it the best place to stay but probably the best place to eat. They are known for their grilled lake fish. There are a few other family-owned restaurants we tried that were also very good, Braugastholf and Rudolfstrum. During Christmas time, it has a small market that features some amazing food to include freshly grilled bratwurst. There are also a wide variety of shops from wood working to regional specialty items.  Explore them all, it won't take long. From the town center it is a short walk to the funicular for the salt mine.

It's a slow, scenic ride 2500 feet up to the top of the mountain providing a panoramic view of the lake and surrounding area. The Hallstatt Skywalk or " Welterbellick" viewing platform extends 36 feet from the mountainside and over 1200 feet above the ground. Not for the faint of heart. Hallstatt literally means "place of salt". It is the oldest known working salt mine in the world dating back almost 7000 years. The 90-minute salt mine tour is truly a unique experience.  You go deep into the mine with several wooden slides that the miners used to get from level to level. There are a couple of video presentations, a light show and plenty of very cool salt crystal formations throughout. You end with a ride on a vintage mining tram made for moving people. Too cool. 

Exploring the village's small, cobbled stone alleyways and avenues is a photographer's dream. Many of the old wooden structures built next to one another are ancient and fire is the biggest threat to the community. Sadly, it happens from time to time and we visited right after several buildings were destroyed. (they will be built back as they were). The streets are filled with aromas not only of families cooking but of coal also. It's still a major source of heat. Be for warned, only local traffic is allowed in the city to include parking. Hallstatt is so popular they have built a parking area for tourists and have shuttles that will take you to your hotel. My hotel mentioned that in our reservations but didn't think I couldn't get in the village to drop off my luggage. Too funny.  

Although a small village it has numerous interesting sites around every corner to include the Market Platz, the old Lutheran Church and the Ossuary. The Hallstatt Ossuary, or "bone house" is located just above the historical town center and provides one of the most beautiful vantage points in Hallstatt from the cemetery.  It's housed in the 12th century St. Michaels Chapel and is one of the most interesting sights in this World Heritage village. Just outside of the old town center are a variety of walking trails that wind their way throughout the countryside. There are as many as 15 trails, but the "Waterfall Loop" is probably the most accessible. It's a good way to see the many old homes on the outskirts of Hallstatt. Weather and time permitting, boat tours are available and give a completely different feel for the village. Even with the crowds at the peak seasons, this is an enchanting experience.