Small but very special
Lake Orta and its medieval village,
Orta San Giulio, are often overlooked for the more popular Lakes Como, Maggiore and Lugano. To me it is a must see as it keeps most of its original charm and is not overcrowded with tourists.
Lake Orta is roughly an hour's drive from the Milan airport, in Italy's Piedmonte region. As you approach Orta, the smallest of the lakes, you quickly realize it is truly picture-perfect. It is not clogged with buildings but rather enveloped by green forests
. At approximately 1200 feet above sea level, Orta San Giulio, sits on a
peninsula with a direct view of the lake's only island, the tiny and picturesque Isola San Giulio. I don't say this often, but Orta San Giulio feels like you are on a movie
-set. Faded frescos adorn the walls and each building is painted in Italy's traditional salmon and ochre hues, complete with stone balconies and peeling shutters. Cobbled stone, winding streets and narrow alleyways that twist upwards towards renaissance churches and ivy-wrapped villas
add to effect. There are a limited number of hotels and we have stayed at two different ones, both very nice. Hotel San Rocco is a renovated 16th-century monastery. This upscale property features a beautiful garden, a fine dining restaurant and has an immediate view of San Giulio Island. Our favorite is Hotel Ristorante La Busola. The reasonably priced rooms afford incredible views of the lake, surrounding mountains and the island. The service is outstanding, the people are wonderful, and the balcony certainly makes for a romantic setting. There are numerous family-run restaurants and trattorias, but our favorite is Ristorante Venus. Try the homemade gnocchi with octopus and broccoli cream. It is really, really good. Its located-on Piazza Mario Motta and adjacent to the small port. You can take a boat ride from the Piazza to Isola San Giulio, just 1500 feet away. The island is dominated by the 12th-century Basilica Di San Giulio which is full of vibrant frescoes that alone make a trip to the island worthwhile. The frescoes mostly depict saints. Step inside after mass, when the air is thick with incense and the frescoes seem to take on a whole new power. The church, island and mainland town are named after a Greek evangelist, Giulio, who’s said to have rid the island of snakes, dragons and assorted monsters in the late 4th century. His remains are in the crypt of Basilica Di San Giulio. Just above Orta San Giulio is
Sarco Monte, an old pilgrimage site and
religious community that dates back to 1583 and is populated with 20 chapels, various statues and shrines. It is a short, but steep, walk uphill and is worth the hard ascent for the site's calm beauty and breathtaking views. Save yourself the perspiration, and head up just before sunset, when the area is lit up magically and you can watch the sun dip below beautiful Lake Orta. I would suggest two full days to see this special place, it's worth it.
Comments
Post a Comment