San Gimignano, Italy and Poggi Alloro

The Skyline

 

Often called the Manhattan of Italy, San Gimignano is a small walled medieval hill town in Tuscany that is known for its 13 towers. The remaining towers are actually houses that were built in the 12th century for fortification and defense from neighboring villages and towns. The richer you were, the taller the towers. There were a lot of rich villagers. At the towns peak of prominence, there were over 70 towers. In the Middle Ages it was a stopping point for Catholic Pilgrams on their way to Rome. The town also grew from the trade of Saffron and wine, which everyone likes. San Gimignano is easily reached by car from Florence or Siena and is considered a 

a must see if visiting Tuscany. I would completely agree. That said, because of its popularity, hordes of day trippers crowd the streets during summer and other peak times such as holidays. I would encourage you to visit in late Spring and early Fall. The weather is typically fantastic, (low temps and not much rain) and not as many tourists. The town is very walkable, from one end to the other even for the not too fit of us. As a World Heritage Site since 1990, San Gimignano has amazing examples of Gothic and Romanisque architecture. 

 A real treat for anyone who loves photography or natural beauty is climbing-up the town's largest tower, the Great Tower or Torre Grossa. It affords a 360 degree, panoramic, birds-eye view of the city and the surrounding countryside from over 200 feet up. Nothing short of breathtaking. If you are up to the climb, it is worth it. For a nominal fee of 8 Euro, entry is gained from the Palazzo Comunale or Town Hall Museum. It stands on the central Piazza del Duomo. Inside the museum is the famous room "Sala di Dante" that is decorated with important collections of courtly frescoes dating back to the 13th and 17th centuries. Whether you are spending an hour or a day in San Gimignano, you will quickly realize the two main piazzas are frequently visited locations. The Piazza del Duomo is home to the historic Duomo di San Gimignano, with impressive architecture surrounding it and an excellent base for your time in the city. Next to the piazza is the connecting Piazza della Cisterna, another medieval standout. This piazza is surrounded by houses, shops, restaurants, and an ancient city gate. Voted the best gelato in the world, El Gelato Piu Buono Del Mando is located in the piazza. Although there are numerous wonderful restaurants in San Gimignano I strongly recommend eating or even staying at Fattoria Poggio Alloro, only 5 km from San Gimignano. 

I have eaten there twice in the past two years, it is one of the most uniquely special places I have visited in Italy, and that is saying a lot as there has been many special places. Poggio Alloro is an Agriturismo, a working farm that has been in the same family for generations. The three Fioroni brothers arrived at the farm in 1955. and through hard work, purchased 25 hectors in 1972 and by 1999 the Agriturismo experience started. It is now run by Sarah, granddaughter to one of the founders. She makes the experience special in her own charming way. If you get the chance watch her on YouTube, Farm to Table Tuscany, and you will understand what I mean. With the exception of the bread, everything is produced on-site, even the Chianina beef. At Poggio Alloro you will have family recipes, local dishes and specialties of the Tuscan region. They cook with seasonal and organic products that that come from the farm. All dishes are accompanied by their delicious red and white wine that they produce and bottle. Lunch, or light lunch as they call it, is a set menu that usually consists of bruschetta, pasta, fresh salad, pecorino cheese, salami and prosciutto and ends with vin santo and cantuccini cookies. I've only had lunch there, but it is nothing short of divine. Some of the best food I've ever had. For dinner they also have a fixed menu that changes day to day and includes four courses. They even have a 10 room B&B, but book very early as I'm sure the rooms go quickly. It's hard to beat eating outside, enjoying wonderful food and a great view of San Gimignano. For a memorable Tuscan experience, try Poggio Alloro, you will not be disappointed.