Tuscan Wineries, Italy

 Something for Everyone

Let me start by saying I know little about wines, just what I like. That said, I know a lot about Tuscany. Wineries in Tuscany are steeped in history, from glorious castles to humble family farms, the scenery is spectacular, the wines delicious and the people so very friendly. Tuscany is now one of the most famous and prolific wine regions anywhere in Europe. It is best known for its Sangiovese-based dry red wines which include Chianti, Brunello di Montalcino and Vino Nobile di Montepulciano. The region's Vin Santo is also highly prized, as are its passito dessert wines, though these are made in tiny volumes by comparison. Dry whites are probably less familiar to most consumers - apart perhaps from Vernaccia di San Gimignano. Situated in central Italy, Tuscany's neighbors are Liguria and Emilia-Romagna to the north, Umbria and Marche to the east and Lazio to the south. Its western boundary is formed by the Tyrrhenian Sea. The picturesque rolling hills with medieval villages and cypress-lined avenues appeal to tourists and so help promote the wines. The region's top wines are officially recognized and protected by a raft of 41 DOC and 11 DOCG titles. There are six more flexible IGP/IGT designations. 

Enough history let's talk about the wineries; they are too numerous to include them all, but these are some of my favorites, from south to north. Banfi is my favorite. It was founded in 1978 by two Italian-American brothers John and Harry Marianai. Their goal was to build a large-scale project, incorporating quality wine production with a modern cellar to create something special. Additionally, the brothers asked Ezio Rivella, one of the great Italian oenologists, to join them to help create one of the finest wineries in Europe. 

Today it is the largest single tract of private, non-government-controlled land in Italy, the largest producer of wine in Italy and is world renowned for its wines. The vast contiguous property has a number of areas to visit but none as fun or interesting as the Castello and the Enoteca/Wine Bar. The ancient Castello houses a wine history museum that is free to visit. Highly recommend that you do. The Wine Bar recreates the atmosphere of a true Tuscan wine shop that is inviting and always friendly. We had the great pleasure to meet Pamela, one of the wives of the original owners. Completely unassuming and nice as nice could be, she was working at one of the check-out counters when we met. We had asked one of the hosts a question about the winery and she referred us to Pamela. What a wonderful experience. She is gracious beyond imagination. She even took us on a private tour of the adjacent Balsamaria. I didn't even know what that was until then and so glad that I do now. If you only have time for one winery while in Tuscany, make time for Banfi, you won't be disappointed. 

Nearby in the northeastern hills of Montalcino is Altesino. The winery in an imposing 15th century Pallazzo that overlooks the estate. Since 2002 Altesino has been owned by the Gnudi Angelini family and specializing in Brunello di Montalcino, arguably one of the most prized of red wines. It can also be one of the most expensive." From its emphasis on traditional methods of agriculture, the careful hand selection of the grapes, to the rose bushes that overlook each of the vines, the Altesino family maintains its control over quality. It's a principle that governs every aspect of life and work at the estate. The company's philosophy has always been to create high quality wines at every stage of 

 production and even includes marketing and image." Part of the historical cellars is contained within the walls of the Pallazzo just behind the vineyards. Altesino prides itself on building a modern winery that is eco-sustainable. Given its underground location it is perfectly insulated.  They also have an amazing Cantina, located in the Pallazzo, that is perfect for intimate wine tastings. Comes complete with a very large and adorable German Sheppard.  The scenery from the Pallazzo is quintessential Tuscany. It is straight out of a movie. Make reservations early as the tasting room is limited. 

Our next winery follows the same tradition of warm hospitality and beautiful surroundings. Brancia is located in the heart of Chianti. Do not be deterred by the very, very steep downhill dirt road leading to the family run farm, production center and tasting room. For over 40 years they have been producing sustainable and organic wines, mostly red but with some whites. We reserved a tour of the cellars, production center and a tasting, all free if my memory serves right. Being a family run business, we were treated for the entire visit by Barbara Widmer, Brancaia’s managing director and enologist, and daughter

to the owners. The whole experience was nothing short of delightful. She was as knowledgeable as she was friendly. Lucky us, we had the afternoon to ourselves.  They specialize in Chianti Classico. 

When you think of Tuscany, you think of elegant and complex red wines. That is what you get with the five different red wines. Made 80 percent from their best Sangiovese, the Chianti Classico Riserva reflects the elegance and charm of this grape variety so typical of Tuscany. A wine that proves how complex Sangiovese can be. I must admit, it is one of my favorites. 

Two of my favorite castle wineries are Castello di Meleto and Castello di Brolio (Ricasoli). Both have their own charm but in completely different ways. Meleto is small and comfy, Brolio large and grand. The name "Meleto in Chianti" is mentioned for the first time in 1256 in the Book of Estimates of the Florentine Guelphs as property of a local feudal family. Thanks to its strategic position close to the border between the territories of the Republic of Florence and Republic of Siena, the castle became a main Florentine stronghold of the area. Today it's not only a winery but also a hotel and restaurant. It has such a laid-back atmosphere. The wine of course is great. 

Ricasoli is the most representative wine producer in the Chianti Classico wine area. With its gentle hills, velvety valleys and thick woodlands of oaks and chestnuts, the 1,200 hectares of property include almost 240 hectares of vineyards and 26 of olive groves. The first stones of Brolio Castle date back to the Middle Ages. The castle passed into the hands of the Ricasoli family thanks to an exchange of lands for which records can be found as early as 1141. The castle has been rebuilt and modified several times and today it bears the marks of the different eras: there are the fortified medieval bastions, Romanesque and neo-Gothic additions and unique nineteenth century Tuscan details. Brolio Castle towers over the Ricasoli company lands, the most extensive in the Chianti Classico area. It is really something to behold and I highly recommend the tour of the Castle and its grounds. You will know you are in Tuscany. 

A must stop for us is Badia a Coltibuono! An Abbey since the 11th century, today a farm and agriturismo and winery, Badia a Coltibuono preserves the original characteristics, structure and appeal of the past. At Coltibuono, earlier a monastery then transformed into an elegant, private family villa, you can experience a unique atmosphere with the cloister, the corridors, the vast salons and frescoed rooms. Guest accommodation options include comfortable restored apartments or individual bedrooms transformed from the former monk cells.

 Perched on a mountaintop it affords incredible views of the surrounding hills and mountains.  We've come here at least a half dozen times just to eat at the restaurant. With a contemporary flair, the restaurant’s atmosphere is warm and welcoming, while the surrounding garden enhances the overall mood with a touch of romance. During the hotter months meals are served outdoors under a bower of climbing roses and wisteria. There is an added something to the preparation of the traditional Tuscan recipes. The effect of simple, in season, ingredients is heightened by the careful use of herbs and vegetables. Handmade fresh pasta, traditional local meats such as lamb or rabbit, not to mention the exceptional steaks from the local cattle breed. We've never been disappointed. Reservations are recommended. Also, if you miss a tasting at the abbey itself, it has a wonderful gift store on the way out. We were most fortunate to be entertained by Antonio, he made the experience very special. The wine is pretty special also, we ordered a case. Not something we do often. 

Last but certainly not least is Da Vinci Wines, it has a special story. In the northern Tuscan hillside, 
over 200 local winegrowers joined together to form Cantine Leonardo da Vinci - an innovative growers' cooperative committed to producing authentic Tuscan wine. This pioneering cooperative encompasses over 500 hectares of vineyards. Its vineyards are owned and run by local growers, such as Lorenzo Locci and Bruno Rossetti. Growers like these are the heart and soul of Cantine Leonardo da Vinci.

Lorenzo oversees his family vineyard and for 50 years the Locci family has grown grapes for DaVinci Wine. For the last 30 years, Bruno also has nurtured his 7-hectare vineyard with the love, care and Tuscan traditions he learned from his father. 
Lorenzo, Bruno, and all the passionate winegrowers who make up the cooperative ensure that DaVinci Wine is crafted with only the best fruit of the harvest. "The better the grapes, the better the wine," the growers say. The production facility and wine tasting area are on the periphery of the property and are modest compared to some of the bigger wineries. What makes the visit special is a tour of the old historic home, now a museum, in the center of the property. It too affords stunning views of the Tuscan hillsides. There are so many wineries to visit and sadly not enough time for all. These are some of my favorites and I hope you have a chance to visit. Probably the best times to go are the Spring and Fall.....enjoy.