Spain and Portugal

 An Iberian Adventure

I must admit it has been a long time since I was in Spain and Portugal, but I long to go back. I'm sure a lot has changed but I know one thing for certain. It is HOT in the summer, especially avoid July. I learned the hard way.  Both countries have their own unique charm with friendly, welcoming people everywhere. We flew into Barcelona and out of Lisbon which provided a great opportunity to see a lot of both countries. Our first stop was at the Hotel Arts in Barcelona. A Ritz Carlton property, this five-star hotel is simply magnificent in every way. Towering 44 floors above the sea, the resort is an urban retreat of blue glass and steel with beautifully designed accommodations, a two-star Michelin restaurant, a roof-top spa and two outdoor pools overlooking the sea and lush gardens. We were fortunate enough to stay at the Concierge Level (the Club) and it was really impressive. It has its own reception, where in addition to five gourmet buffets served throughout the day, there is an advising team at your disposal for any needs you might have, a special bottle of Port let's say. It is located in one of the city's major attractions and in front of the Olympic Port. It is perfectly integrated into the city and offers magnificent views of the Barcelona and the Mediterranean. 

There are so many attractions in Barcelona it is hard to decide what to see. The Placa de Catalunya, the Basilica de La Sagra Familia, the many works Antoni Gaudi, the restaurants, tapas bars and local specialty shops. I strongly suggest doing what we did, hire a knowledgeable guide. It is well worth the money. Give yourself at least three to four days to see this wonderful city and relax in the hotel. The Gaudi exhibits / museums /parks are very unique to the world. He had a certain fanciful view of life, and it shined through his work. Perhaps the most interesting to me was Park Gudell.  The quirky colorful mosaics and undulating curves of the park are a signature of the legendary Catalan architect who designed many of the features in this park. Officially opened in 1926 and initially planned as a district for the rich, it is now one of the city's most popular attractions and a great representation of Catalan modernism. The entrance with two fairytale-like houses and the iconic salamander fountain are the busiest. Tickets are required to enter the park, but again, well worth the price.

I'm writing this not because of my great expertise but to introduce you to Paradores. A dear friend from Germany told us about them and we were very fortunate that we listened to him. Back in the late 70's and early 80's both countries had a lot of castles, palaces, fortresses, and monasteries that were abandoned or sitting idle. Both governments saw an opportunity to develop three- and four-star luxury accommodations for tourists. The gamble paid off and they were the highlight of our trip. Each Parador comes with a regional breakfast that is particular to that area. Really the only meal you need to have. I could go on and on about the size, diversity and deliciousness of the food, but I can sum it up in two words:  Simply magnificent! Our first Paradore was de Cardona. 

An hour northwest of Barcelona, it sits on a promontory in a 9th century castle. It is one of the most impressive medieval complexes in Catalonia. Its hilltop location offers visitors an exceptional view of the town of Cardona, the Pyrenees and the interior of Catalonia. Inside, moats, towers and Gothic walls are combined with a décor designed for comfort and furnishings inspired by Catalan medieval art. The restaurant, located in the old refectory, is one of the most impressive in the Paradores portfolio. You’ll be amazed by the gallery of pointed arches as you savor the best in gastronomy.

Another impressive Parador is in Jaen. At the top of the hill of Santa Catalina, next to the castle of the same name, stands the Parador de Jaén, crowning the city and offering visitors a spectacular view of the mountains of the Sierra Morena and Sierra Mágina. A starting point and destination for discovering all the charms of the Andalusian Renaissance, the Parador stands out for its façade of huge stone walls and impressive interior vaults. There you’ll fund a traditional look that combines sober defensive architecture with regional craftsmanship that will take you to another age.

Another favorite is Carmona. Half an hour from Seville, on the ruins of an impressive fourteenth-century Moorish fortress, stands the Parador de Carmona, a carefully crafted Andalusian-style palace that pays homage to the region's past. The building crowns the city with an exceptional panoramic view, enjoyable from every corner of the Parador, and especially from its swimming pool and terrace. Inside, the Mudejar motifs star in an exquisite decoration, which creates unique spaces such as the interior courtyard, the Bermejo Room, with its tapestries and antiques, or the old refectory, now a restaurant.

More often than not the poster child for Spain is Andalucia, a sun-drenched fiesta-loving region that for centuries sits on the frontier of two religions: Christianity and Islam.  Andalucia underwent a cross-fertilization that produced some of the world’s most iconic architecture and cuisine infused with North African spices.  One of the province’s most remarkable features is its Pueblos Blancos, or white villages, that lie scattered across the hills of Andalucia. These include Huelva, Seville, Granada, Jaen, Ronda, Cordoba and Malaga. One of my favorites is Ronda. Regarded as the birthplace of bullfighting, Ronda, with its population of nearly 35,000 inhabitants, is easily the largest of Andalucia’s white villages. 

Ronda’s main attraction is its Puente Nuevo bridge linking the old and new towns 400 feet above a dramatic gorge. The absolute joy lies in exploring Ronda’s back streets, where you will be rewarded with panoramic views and a feel for those who call Ronda home. While Ronda may be crowded with Costa del Sol day trippers in the morning and afternoon, they are all gone by the evening, and the locals reclaim the town with a thriving tapas scene. While in Andalucia visiting Granada is a must to include the remarkable ensemble of the Alhambra and the Generalife palace. The Alhambra is the second most visited monument in Spain and one of the main international tourist attractions. Started in the thirteenth century it took centuries to complete because it was inhabited by different religions. The magic and uniqueness of the Alhambra comes from the fact that different cultures have occupied it which shaped Granada's identity. It is the only preserved palatine city from the Arabic period in the world. 

A short drive from Andalucia is Portugal's Algarve.

Located in the very south of Portugal, the Algarve is one on Europe's top beach destinations. Best known for its golden beaches, dramatic coastal cliffs and sea pillars, cool, blue-green waters, it draws visitors from all over to a long list of resorts. I can highly recommend staying at the Pine Cliffs Hotel, a Luxury Collection of Marriott. This iconic, 5-star cliff-top retreat is located above Portugal's famous beach, Praia da Falésia, and boasts stunning views of the Atlantic Ocean. With a Moorish influenced decor, the hotel's guest rooms teem with exquisite, indigenous details, plush beds and spa-inspired bathrooms. Each hotel room boasts a private balcony with views of Algarve's red cliffs overlooking the ocean or beautifully manicured gardens. Enjoy the charming and quaint coastal towns of Ohlao and Tavira. 

Lisbon, Portugal's capitol, is a fairly large metro area of around two million but the old town is very manageable and wonderfully intact. It is a vibrant and colorful destination that offers a mix of culture, cuisine, and entertainment. With a history that spans over a thousand years you can explore the historic neighborhoods, with charming cafes, street art, and fado music. You can also visit the impressive monuments and museums that showcase the city's rich heritage and maritime legacy. Lisbon is also a great base for day trips to the nearby beaches, castles, and natural parks.  Although we stayed in a historic hotel within walking distance of the beach, I would recommend staying in nearby Cascais at Hotel Albatroz. This stunning five-star hotel is perched above the beach and the Bay of Cascais. This charming boutique hotel's architecture borrows from the historical building of the area and each room is different from the other. We were extremely fortunate that our Lisbon guide recommended it. It just exudes relaxation and comfort. A short drive away is another must see, Sintra. A World Heritage site since 1995, Sintra's craggy landscape seems almost mythical framed by very colorful intact palaces. One of which is the Park and National Palace of Pena. It features a unique, yellow-colored exterior. You will feel as if you're royalty when you visit it.

If Spain or Portugal are on your bucket-list, try and do them on the same trip. It is very manageable and certainly worth the travel. That said, if you really want to learn more about each's diverse culture, take several weeks to see each country. Enjoy!!!!